The Ultimate Shetland Islands Travel Guide

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In this Shetland Islands travel guide, I’ll share what we loved most, a few things I wish we’d known before we arrived, and some attractions that are already on my list for next time. If you’re trying to decide whether Shetland is worth the extra travel time, I hope this guide helps you plan your own trip.

When people think about Scotland, places like Edinburgh, the Highlands, and the Isle of Skye usually get all the attention. I’ll admit, before this trip I didn’t know much about the Shetland Islands either. After spending six days exploring them, though, they ended up being one of my favorite parts of our entire UK vacation. Between the dramatic coastline, fascinating history, incredible wildlife, and the fact that we often had places almost entirely to ourselves, Shetland completely exceeded my expectations.

Quick Facts About the Shetland Islands

Location	Approximately 100 miles north of mainland Scotland
Best Way to Get There	Fly into Sumburgh Airport or take the overnight ferry from Aberdeen
Rental Car Needed?	Yes. Highly recommended.
Recommended Trip Length	5–7 days
Best For	Wildlife, hiking, photography, history, scenic road trips
Best Time for Puffins	Late April through early August
Weather	Cool, windy, and unpredictable – even in summer
Currency	British Pound (£)
Language	English
My Favorite Stop	Muckle Roe

Why Visit the Shetland Islands?

The Shetland Islands don’t feel like anywhere else in Scotland.

Located closer to Norway than Edinburgh, this remote archipelago blends dramatic coastlines, Viking heritage, abundant wildlife, and some of the most peaceful scenery I’ve experienced anywhere in the UK.

One thing I wasn’t expecting was how few people we saw. We visited in July, so I assumed the popular spots would be busy, but that rarely happened. There were plenty of times we’d pull into a parking area and find only a few other cars, and once we started walking, it often felt like we had the trails to ourselves.

If you enjoy history, wildlife, and getting a little off the typical tourist trail, I think the Shetland Islands are absolutely worth the extra effort to get there.

Shetland ponies are a fun to spot and a recommendation from the shetland islands travel guide

Best Time to Visit the Shetland Islands

Summer (June through August) is the most popular time to visit thanks to the long daylight hours, active wildlife, and relatively mild weather.

We visited in July, and I thought it was a great time to be there. The puffins were still nesting at Sumburgh Head, everything was incredibly green, and we had enough daylight to pack a full day of sightseeing into our schedule without feeling rushed. Coming from Texas, I was also surprised by how comfortable the temperatures were. I never felt hot, and I was usually happy in a light jacket or quarter-zip.

If seeing puffins is your priority, aim for late April through early August.

Puffins are a highlight in the Shetland Islands travel guide.

How to Get to the Shetland Islands

Although the Shetland Islands feel wonderfully remote, getting there is easier than you might expect. Most visitors arrive one of two ways:

Fly into Sumburgh Airport (LSI) from mainland Scotland.
Take the overnight NorthLink ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick.

We chose to fly into Sumburgh Airport because it fit our itinerary best. After picking up our rental car, it was about a 30-minute drive to our vacation rental in Lerwick. The airport is small, so we were in the car and on our way much faster than I expected.

Renting a car also gave us the flexibility to see much more of the islands than we could have otherwise. During five days, we visited Jarlshof, Eshaness, Muckle Roe, Sumburgh Head, and Unst, plus plenty of unplanned stops along the way. Looking back, I wouldn’t plan a Shetland trip without one.

Helpful planning resources:

Learn more about flights and trip planning on the Visit Shetland website.
If you’d rather travel by sea, NorthLink Ferries operates the overnight ferry between Aberdeen and Lerwick.
We booked our rental car through Expedia, but you can also compare prices through other rental car websites to find the best deal.

Tip: Reserve your rental car as early as possible, especially if you’re visiting during the summer. There aren’t nearly as many rental cars available as you’ll find at larger airports, so booking ahead gives you the best selection and pricing.

Where to Stay

We used VRBO to choose a vacation rental in Lerwick and would absolutely stay there again. Our rental was in easy walking distance to restaurants, bars and the main shopping street. If you are looking for more of a hotel or guesthouse type accommodation Booking.com has great options as well.

Making our base in Lerwick gave us easy access to grocery stores, restaurants, fuel, and nearly every road we’d need throughout the week.

One thing we learned quickly: make restaurant reservations before you arrive. Many restaurants were booked several days in advance during our visit.

Fortunately, Da Harbour Chippy became our dependable backup…more than once.

Should You Rent A Car?

Absolutely.

A rental car is one of my biggest recommendations in this Shetland Islands travel guide. Many of Shetland’s best attractions are spread across multiple islands, and public transportation isn’t practical if you want flexibility.

Driving turned out to be much easier than expected. Traffic was minimal, roads were in great condition, and after the first day, driving on the left side felt surprisingly natural.

One unexpected highlight was driving onto two ferries during our day trip to Unst.

We booked our car with Expedia, and I recommend booking as soon as possible. I also recommend confirming with the rental location prior to your departure. The rental car company is locally owned but has a booking system tied to the major car rental companies. The employee working the check-in desk told us that there had been some issues with bookings through Avis. It would be a shame travel all that way and not have a car.

How Many Days Do You Need in the Shetland Islands?

I think five to six full days is the sweet spot.

That gave us enough time to:

Explore the southern mainland
Visit Jarlshof and Sumburgh Head
Take a full-day trip to Unst
Hike Hermaness
Visit Eshaness
Explore Muckle Roe
Wander around Lerwick
Visit Clickimin Broch

Could you do it in three days? Yes.

Would you leave wishing you’d had more time? Absolutely.

Best Things to Do: A Shetland Islands Travel Guide to My Favorite Stops

Jarlshof Prehistoric and Norse Settlement

No Shetland Islands travel guide would be complete without a visit to Jarlshof, more than 4,000 years of history come together at one remarkable site. From prehistoric homes and Iron Age brochs to Viking longhouses and medieval buildings, Jarlshof was one of the most fascinating historical attractions we visited.

Check out their website for more information

Details on how to visit Jarlshof in the shetland islands travel guide.

Sumburgh Head

Watching puffins at Sumburgh Head became one of the highlights of our trip.

Even without the puffins, the lighthouse and dramatic cliffs are worth the visit.

Puffins at Sumburgh Head in the shetland islands travel guide.

St. Ninian’s Isle

One of the most memorable parts of visiting St. Ninian’s Isle is walking across the sandy tombolo that connects it to the mainland. After crossing over, you can explore the ruined medieval chapel and enjoy views of the surrounding coastline.

Hermaness Nature Reserve

Getting here required two ferry crossings to the island of Unst, but it was worth every mile.

The four-mile round-trip hike leads to spectacular sea cliffs overlooking Muckle Flugga Lighthouse and thousands of nesting seabirds.

Tip: Consider booking your ferry passage in advance. It’s possible your planned ferry could fill up, and you may have to wait a while for the next one depending on the day/time.

Eshaness Cliffs

Towering sea cliffs, volcanic rock formations, crashing waves, and even a seal swimming below made Eshaness one of the most dramatic places we visited.

Photographers could easily spend half a day here.

Muckle Roe

If I had to recommend just one stop in Shetland, this would be it.

Our “two-mile walk” turned into more of a hike than expected, and I definitely wished I’d packed sturdier shoes. But the scenery was probably my favorite on the islands.

Clickimin Broch

A quick but worthwhile stop just outside Lerwick.

It’s one of the best-preserved Iron Age brochs in Scotland and easy to combine with sightseeing around town.

Muness Castle

A worthwhile detour if you’re already visiting Unst. Or need to kill time before the next ferry departure.

A Fun Local Stop: The Original Cake Fridge

One of our favorite unexpected discoveries was the Original Cake Fridge. Local bakers stock the refrigerator with homemade cakes and treats, and visitors simply choose what they’d like and pay using the honesty system. It’s a small stop, but it’s a fun example of the trust and community spirit we noticed throughout Shetland.

Explore Lerwick

Take time to wander. Some of our favorite memories included:

Photographing the Lodberries
Shopping for souvenirs
Walking along the harbor
Enjoying slower evenings after long sightseeing days

Where We Ate

While this Shetland Islands travel guide focuses on sightseeing and logistics, there are a few memorable places to eat.

Da Harbour Chippy

Apparently three visits in five days isn’t excessive…

Excellent fish and chips and perfect after long sightseeing days.

The Dowry

We celebrated our anniversary here and liked it enough that we came back later in the week. It ended up being one of our favorite dinners in Shetland.

Fjara

Beautiful waterfront location and delicious food. It comes up in the listings as an Espresso bar, don’t be fooled they serve lunch and dinner too!

Sumburgh Hotel

We had lunch here before visiting Jarlshof and Sumburgh Head, and it worked out really well since it’s only a few minutes away.

Tesco Meal Deals

One of our best travel discoveries.

We packed sandwiches, drinks, and snacks for several road trips and ended up eating lunch overlooking cliffs and beaches instead of rushing back into town.

Map: Attractions Featured in This Guide

Sumburgh Airport
Jarlshof
Sumburgh Head
St. Ninian’s Isle
Lerwick
Clickimin Broch
Muckle Roe
Eshaness
Muness Castle
Hermaness Nature Reserve

Other Things to Do in the Shetland Islands

Although we packed a lot into six days, there are still several places I’d love to visit.

If you prefer to do less driving or travel with a group, I highly recommend the tours from GetYourGuide and Viator.

Sample Shetland Islands Itineraries

One of the best things about visiting the Shetland Islands is that you can tailor your trip to your interests. Whether you only have a long weekend or an entire week, these are the itineraries I would recommend after spending five days exploring the islands. The itineraries in this Shetland Islands travel guide are super flexible and can be adjusted based on the weather.

3-Day Shetland Islands Itinerary

Best for: First-time visitors who want to see Shetland’s biggest highlights.

Day 1: South Mainland & Ancient History

Visit Jarlshof, Sumburgh Head, and St. Ninian’s Isle before settling into Lerwick.

Morning

Pick up rental car
Visit Jarlshof Prehistoric & Norse Settlement

Lunch

Sumburgh Hotel

Afternoon

Sumburgh Head Lighthouse
Puffin viewing (late April–early August)
Walk across to St. Ninian’s Isle

Evening

Check into your accommodation in Lerwick
Walk the harbor
Dinner at Fjara or The Dowry

Day 2: Dramatic Sea Cliffs & Coastal Scenery

Spend the day exploring Eshaness, hidden beaches, and some of Shetland’s most spectacular landscapes.

Eshaness Cliffs
Eshaness Lighthouse
Coastal walking trails
Original Cake Fridge
Nearby Standing Stone

Return to Lerwick for dinner.

Day 3: Lerwick & Local History

Explore Lerwick’s waterfront, historic sites, museums, and nearby coastal viewpoints before heading home.

Clickimin Broch
Shetland Museum & Archives
Explore the Lodberries
Souvenir shopping
Fly home

5-Day Shetland Islands Itinerary

Best for: Travelers who want to experience Shetland without feeling rushed.

Day 1: South Mainland Highlights

Discover Jarlshof, Sumburgh Head, and the iconic walk to St. Ninian’s Isle.

Jarlshof
Sumburgh Head
St. Ninian’s Isle

Day 2: Eshaness & Northmavine

Experience towering sea cliffs, coastal walks, and some of Shetland’s wildest scenery.

Eshaness Cliffs
Standing Stone
Original Cake Fridge
Scenic coastal drive

Day 3: Unst Adventure

Take the ferries north to explore Britain’s northernmost inhabited island, puffins, and dramatic coastal views.

Highlights include:

Hermaness Nature Reserve
Muckle Flugga Lighthouse viewpoint
Muness Castle

Expect this to be your longest sightseeing day.

Day 4: Flexible Weather Day

Keep this day open until you see the forecast.

If the weather is beautiful:

Head to Muckle Roe, where you’ll find some of the most spectacular scenery in all of Shetland. Allow plenty of time to hike, stop for photos, and simply enjoy the views.

If the weather is windy or rainy:

Spend the day exploring attractions that don’t rely on clear skies.

Ideas include:

Shetland Museum & Archives
Fort Charlotte
Shopping in Lerwick
Local cafés
Harbor walk between rain showers

One of the advantages of staying in Lerwick is that you’ll always have something interesting to do, even if the weather changes.

Day 5: Schedule an Adventure

If you didn’t make it to Muckle Roe, today is the perfect opportunity.

Otherwise, consider booking:

Wildlife boat tour
Orca watching excursion (seasonal)
Sea kayaking experience

Return your rental car and fly home.

7-Day Shetland Islands Itinerary

Best for: Wildlife lovers, photographers, and anyone who enjoys slower travel.

Day 1: Arrival & Exploring Lerwick

Settle into Shetland with a scenic drive from the airport, a grocery stop, and an evening exploring Lerwick’s harbor, shops, and restaurants.

Pick up rental car
Grocery stop
Explore Lerwick
Harbor walk
Dinner in town

Day 2: Southern Mainland & Ancient History

Visit some of Shetland’s most iconic attractions, including Jarlshof, Sumburgh Head, puffins, and the beautiful walk to St. Ninian’s Isle.

Jarlshof
Sumburgh Head
Puffins
St. Ninian’s Isle

Day 3: West Mainland’s Dramatic Coastline

Discover towering sea cliffs, volcanic landscapes, historic standing stones, and one of Shetland’s most charming roadside traditions.

Eshaness Cliffs
Volcanic coastline walk
Standing Stone
Original Cake Fridge

Day 4: Unst & Britain’s Northern Frontier

Take the ferries to Britain’s northernmost inhabited island to explore Hermaness Nature Reserve, Muckle Flugga viewpoints, and Muness Castle.

Hermaness Nature Reserve
Muckle Flugga Lighthouse viewpoint
Muness Castle

Day 5 : Muckle Roe & My Favorite Views in Shetland

Spend the day hiking one of Shetland’s most spectacular landscapes, where quiet trails, dramatic cliffs, and unforgettable scenery make it worth slowing down

Bring good hiking shoes, a picnic lunch, and your camera. This is the kind of place you’ll want to explore without watching the clock.

Day 6: Follow the Weather

Keep your plans flexible by choosing outdoor adventures on clear days or museums, galleries, cafés, and shopping in Lerwick when the weather turns.

If conditions are clear:

Choose one of these outdoor adventures:

Mousa Broch
Noss National Nature Reserve
Wildlife boat cruise
Orca watching (seasonal)
Sea kayaking

If the weather isn’t cooperating:

Enjoy a relaxed day in Lerwick.

Shetland Museum & Archives
Fort Charlotte
Shopping
Local galleries
Waterfront cafés

Keeping one flexible day in your itinerary gives you a much better chance of experiencing Shetland’s incredible scenery under the best possible conditions.

Day 7: One Last Taste of Shetland

Enjoy one final walk around Lerwick or lunch at (Da Harbour Chippy) before returning your rental car and flying home.

Planning Tip: Let the Weather Guide Your Itinerary

One of the biggest lessons I learned during our trip is that the weather can completely change your experience.

A sunny day at Eshaness, Hermaness, or Muckle Roe is unforgettable. The same hike in heavy rain, low clouds, or strong winds can mean missing the very views you came to see.

If your schedule allows, avoid assigning every attraction to a fixed day. Instead, keep at least one day flexible and check the forecast each evening. You can easily swap hiking days with museums, shopping, or sightseeing around Lerwick.

It may seem like a small adjustment, but it can make a huge difference in your overall experience.

Shetland Travel Tips

Reserve restaurants before arriving.
Rent a car.
Download offline Google Maps.
Bring hiking shoes.
Pack layers.
Carry binoculars.
Leave extra time in your itinerary.
Stop often – the unexpected viewpoints became some of our favorites.

What I’d Pack Differently

Overall, I packed well, but I’d definitely upgrade my hiking shoes before another trip to Shetland.

I’d also bring compact binoculars for wildlife viewing and continue packing lightweight layers that block the wind.

Shetland Must Haves:

Hiking shoes

Lightweight rain jacket

Compact binoculars

For more details on how I packed for this trip, what worked well and what I would do differently, check out my recent post: My UK Packing List Review: What I Packed vs. What I Actually Used

Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting the Shetland Islands

These are some of the questions we asked while planning our trip and preparing the Shetland Islands travel guide.

Is visiting the Shetland Islands worth it?

Absolutely. If you enjoy dramatic scenery, history, wildlife, and destinations that still feel off the beaten path, the Shetland Islands are one of Scotland’s most rewarding destinations.

How many days should I spend in the Shetland Islands?

I recommend five to six days. That gave us enough time to explore multiple islands, hike several trails, visit historical sites, and still leave a few attractions for next time.

Do you need a rental car in the Shetland Islands?

Yes. While buses serve some communities, a rental car provides the flexibility to explore the islands at your own pace.

When is the best time to visit the Shetland Islands?

Late spring through summer offers the best weather, longest daylight hours, and the opportunity to see puffins and other nesting seabirds.

Can you see puffins in the Shetland Islands?

Yes. Sumburgh Head is one of the easiest places to see puffins between late April and early August.

Are the Shetland Islands expensive?

Accommodation and rental cars can be more expensive than mainland Scotland, but many of the islands’ best attractions (including hiking trails, beaches, wildlife, and scenic viewpoints) are completely free.

Is Lerwick a good place to stay?

Yes. Lerwick makes an excellent home base thanks to its restaurants, grocery stores, fuel stations, shopping, and central location.

Can you visit the Shetland Islands without hiking?

Absolutely. While some of the most dramatic scenery requires a short walk, attractions like Jarlshof, Sumburgh Head, Clickimin Broch, Lerwick, and many viewpoints are easily accessible by car.

Looking Back on Our Time in Shetland

Before this trip, the Shetland Islands were honestly one of the places I knew the least about. Six days later, they ended up being one of the most memorable parts of our UK vacation.

I expected beautiful scenery, but I didn’t expect the islands to feel so peaceful or for the history to be so accessible. From watching puffins at Sumburgh Head to hiking at Muckle Roe and stumbling across little surprises like the Original Cake Fridge, Shetland was full of experiences that felt uniquely its own.

We still left with a list of places we’d like to see next time, which tells me one thing: six days was enough to fall in love with the islands, but not enough to see everything.

I hope this Shetland Islands travel guide helps you plan a trip that’s every bit as memorable as ours.